When Sound cannot Help: Aesop, Lemaire, and Burberry
Within design, the physical is going to be the first thing we focus on when looking at a product. The sound, smell, and mood of the environment will also be present wherever the product is to be seen but many times are often overlooked or ignored. Despite this, these elements together will dictate how the product is perceived and interpreted, regardless of whether they are acknowledged or not. Focusing on sound, it is a crucial component in a presentation, video, or display that can help communicate the intended message to a greater extent.
In September of this year, Burberry presented their 2024 Spring/Summer collection. During the presentation, music by Dean Blunt could be heard all around the walkway. Dean Blunt, a musician from Hackney, London, is an artist known for being able to utilize various different genres to communicate a theme(s) or messages. He has made a name for himself through his unique creative direction regarding his sound and conceptual choices.
Burberry, within fashion, is known for being the original creator of the “Trench Coat.” They are also recognized for their classic tailoring in the pieces they offer. Despite this, Burberry is not as conceptually established to the level that a fashion house like Helmut Lang (pre 2004) is, who also focused on classic tailoring. An odd pairing, but it's not that simple. This year, Burberry appointed Daniel Lee, who was previously the director for Bottega Veneta, to creatively direct Burberry for the coming years in hopes of being able to rebrand Burberry successfully. This has been attempted in the past with Ricardo Tisci but was not successful and from the looks of it, it won't be an easy task for Daniel Lee either. Looking at what burberry wants to achieve, it is clear why they decided on playing Dean Blunt. If Burberry were to use similar music of their past runways or music that is not thought provoking, it would only reinforce the current perception that the public has on Burberry. So was Burberry successful?
The clothes presented in the show put an emphasis on classic tailoring while branching out in regards to colors, patterns, and styling. The colors and patterns used are not commonly found on Burberry clothing pieces and were placed in a manner that was not out of place.
Focusing on the styling, Burberry showcased many ways that a trenchcoat could be worn amongst an abundance of other trench coats and dresses. There were many similar outfits and pieces that made the show cohesive but caused the show to become a bit repetitive. Ultimately, it could be observed that while the trenchcoat is a Burberry staple that is here to stay, it also serves as an indicator that Burberry does not have much to work with in terms of experimenting and developing its brand conceptually. Here sound could not save or help Burberry communicate their message even if they try to align themselves with experimental or conceptually based artists. The reason for this: Burberry had little to say or show that is new. It is hard for music to be able to make a brand's message or intent clear if there is little to go off of. This alone will make it difficult for Daniel Lee to present pieces that fit Burberry's design identity, while creating something that is new to the fashion house with what exists already.
The utilization of sound can be seen done successfully within other brands such as Aesop and Lemaire who hold a key component that is crucial when utilizing other mediums.
Both Aesop and Lemaire have their foundations rooted within functional design while defying how practical design and product consumption can look like in this current age. Their foundation allows them to freely explore different smells, shapes, and creations while not straying away from their brand identities. By digging through their spotify playlists, much of the music found in these playlists fit their approaches seamlessly. The two brands have music made by artists such as Brian Eno, Tirzah, Ryuichi Sakamoto, Aphex Twin, and Sun Ra. All of these artists are respected for their efforts in progressing what music is perceived to be. They are/were progressive in their respective time regardless of their genre. You can start to connect the dots as the music has to be aligned with the brand’s identity. Put into practice, you can hear this music playing in Aesop locations all around the world. It does not sound forced or out of place, but instead helps the experience along with the store design and smells. On the runway, Lemaire, in their S/S 2024, show played ambient music fused with sounds of a city, as it tied to their goal of making clothing meant to be worn everyday.
They display a clear understanding of their own brand and presentation that shines through the sound, making it much more memorable. Both the music (sound) and product, end up elevating each other's own ethos to make their intended message to the audience much clearer. By doing so, they do not take away from each other's presence or have to be reliant on each other. Similarity to what I mentioned before, there has to be a clear message or foundation in mind for music to help.
It’s becoming more common to see brands start to rely on different mediums, like music, in hopes to communicate the entire message. This should not be the case, as a piece of clothing or product should be developed enough to where sound can help guide the audience to the intended message, no less no more. Music, and other mediums used, can only help once the main piece of clothing or product is established to its fullest extent.
Sources:
LEMAIRE Spring Summer 2024
https://www.behindtheblinds.be/btb-show-report/burberry-ss24
https://us.gloverall.com/blogs/journal/the-history-of-the-trench-coat?shpxid=8aeec472-a6ec-41c3-9d31-e9bb64510d5f
https://www.lemaire.fr/pages/lemaire-collection-spring-summer-2024
https://www.aesop.com/us/r/about/
https://www.lemaire.fr/pages/lemaire